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Turkish Delights

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By JAN HOLLINGSWORTH

The Tampa Tribune

Published: July 12, 2008

PLANT CITY - Somewhere beneath the hum of dinner conversation, the muted strains of ney flutes and harmoniums announce the show is about to begin.

The diners look up from heaping plates of hummus, couscous, kebobs and cupra - some puzzled, others expectant - as "Misha" glides into the room, a silver basket balanced on her head. It is the belly dancer's version of a tip jar.

The music rises, the lights dim, and for the next 15 minutes, the night belongs to Melissa Cain, whose alter ego, Misha, mesmerizes the Saturday night crowd with a taste of the Middle Eastern slinks and shimmies that complement the extraordinary cuisine.

With gas topping $4 a gallon, folks have to travel no farther than the local Days Inn off Interstate 4 for an exotic night out at the Turquoise Mediterranean Grill. Here, the infusion of food and culture has transformed an otherwise mundane motel restaurant into a singular experience.

"I consider the place an undiscovered treasure," said Amber Ballinger, better known in local belly dancing circles as Cerice Janan.

Ballinger heads Troupe Bal Hepsi, a Tampa Bay area dance ensemble that performs at festivals, weddings, parties and other special events.

Most recently, Misha and other members of the troupe have found a regular Saturday night gig at the Turquoise Grill, which specializes in authentic Turkish-style Mediterranean cuisine and Middle Eastern hospitality.

"It is like you are coming to my home to eat," said Berna Nar, whose kitchen wizardry earned her and husband Erkan a devoted following at their previous eatery, a small sandwich shop in the downtown historical district.

The Turkish couple operated The SubClub at Reynolds and Palmer streets for four years, offering a popular selection of hot and cold subs, soups and salads.

Berna Nar's tiny kitchen also turned out lentil balls, couscous, zucchini pate, feta rolls, eggplant and a seemingly endless array of Mediterranean specialties.

However, there was a limit to what Nar could produce on a two-burner hot plate. She yearned for a real commercial kitchen, with a six-burner stove.

Erkan Nar wanted to take the business to the next level - a bistro offering fish, kabobs, lamb chops and other grilled Mediterranean entrees.

"I'm very happy with the kitchen," Berna Nar said. "It's much easier to prepare meals, and I know I can create many different items. I just want to give people different, healthy foods. People with cholesterol problems can eat it. Vegetarians and meat-lovers can eat it."

Nar is fastidious about her ingredients. The cold-pressed extra virgin olive oil not only must be Italian - it must come from the right part of Italy.

Nearly every day she is scouring the farmer's market for herbs and spices, including fresh basil, rosemary and thyme.

Dried mint is flown in from Turkey.

"I can't find good fresh mint leaves here," she said.

Virtually everything is made from scratch. Fresh tomatoes are marinated for two weeks before they are turned into sauce. Fresh lamb and veal also are marinated for two days until fork-tender.

Salad fixings are organic. Soups start in a stock pot.

Baklava, flan, rice pudding and Turkish ice cream all are homemade.

"It takes more time and effort to do these things, but we wanted this so much. We're trying to make a name here," she said.

Nar's specialties, including her recipe for stuffed grape leaves, already have acquired a regular following.

"Even people who don't know what stuffed grape leaves are like them," she said. "And my feta rolls are unique."

Nar calls it "restaurant-style home cooking."

"Everything we eat at home, we eat here," she said. "It's special treatment for all of our customers."

That includes the ability to order items not on the menu.

"As long as we have the ingredients, we're happy to accommodate," said Yvette Rouse, co-owner and manager of the Turquoise Mediterranean Grill.

Italian dishes are another specialty for Nar, who has a master's degree in economics and language from Rome University and worked in Italy as an interpreter for the World Bank.

"If they ask me for different foods, I can make them," she said. "The important thing is they have to ask me."

Rouse, a former SubClub customer-turned-partner, was "an Air Force brat" whose father was stationed in Turkey for a time.

"Some of the things decorating the restaurant are things we brought back when we traveled over there," said Rouse, who retired from her job as technology manager for Progressive Insurance in December.

Transforming the dark former bar and lounge at the Days Inn at 301 S. Frontage Road took the better part of three months, she said.

They replaced the floor tile and furniture and splashed the huge cathedral ceiling with bright blue paint. Airy sheers drape the windows, lending a Middle Eastern flavor.

Erkan Nar discovered a gargantuan hanging lamp while scavenging through downtown antique stores. The colorful chandelier serves as the centerpiece of the former bar, which Nar - the artist in the family - covered in a Turkish-inspired pattern of turquoise and gold paint.

"The motif that inspired me was late Roman and Turkish tiles in churches," he said. "It added something of our spirit to the restaurant. I wanted to add something from me."

Nar is the butcher, preparing all of the meat. He also has taken over breakfast duties at the restaurant, serving up an all-American menu of eggs, bacon, sausage, hash browns, grits and pancakes required by their contract with Days Inn.

Breakfast is geared toward hotel guests and anyone else looking for a big meal for a small price. "It's quite a bit of food for $5.75," Rouse said.

Located on the south side of I-4 east of Wheeler Street, the restaurant sees its share of truckers, who are surprised to discover a Mediterranean restaurant in such a locale but are pleased to find the option of traditional American favorites any time of day.

There still are the Cuban sandwiches, Italian panini, chicken salad and tuna subs that put SubClub on the Plant City map. There also are hamburgers and french fries.

"I always like to see who's going to be more adventurous and try the lamb," Rouse said.

Those truly looking for adventure have discovered the Saturday night belly dancing that has become a staple at the Turquoise Grill.

"We wanted something more in keeping with the Turkish culture for the weekend," Rouse said. "Something fun."

The style of belly dancing practiced at the Nar's restaurant is strictly traditional Turkish - from the movements and costumes to the silver tip basket that discourages the tucking of bills into dancers' belts and wrist cuffs.

"We do not do body tipping at this restaurant," Misha said. "It's more family friendly - and traditional Turkish."

Nor does Misha bring her selection of pet pythons to perform her celebrated snake dance. "They are not a prop. They are a dance partner," she said.

Pythons and food do not mix, said the former reptile curator who has a master's degree in environmental education. When she is not baring her navel for fun and profit by night, Misha works by day for a county conservation program.

She does bring her share of props to her performances at the Turquoise: There are finger cymbals, veils, wings of Isis and a sword. The wings, she said, are not exactly Turkish - but "we kind of sneak them in because they're fancy and pretty."

Misha, 30, performs three 15-minute sets starting at 7 p.m. with an elaborate costume change for each one.

"On a typical night, I'll wear three skirts or more, plus harem pants, arm coverings and a bedlah," the bra-like top that exposes her midriff.

She has danced most of her life, including classical ballet. She discovered belly dancing about five years ago and teaches as well as practices the art form.

"It is not stripping, so please do not treat us as such," she said. "The dancers train really hard.

"You're balancing a sword on your head and spinning, and that takes practice - and skill."

Nonetheless, Misha encourages audience members to dance with her. Sometimes members of Bal Hepsi or other troupes join in. Other times there are novices - from children to grandpas.

"Anybody can participate if they're willing," she said. "A lot of people make the mistake of thinking it's a woman's dance, but it's not."

Belly dancing has its own rewards, she said. Dancing at the Turquoise, however, comes with a pleasant bonus.

"Oh, my God, the food is amazing," she said.

IF YOU GO

WHAT: Turquoise Mediterranean Grill
WHERE: 301 S. Frontage Road, Plant City, on the south side of Interstate 4 between the State Road 39 (also known as Wheeler Street) and Park Road exits

HOURS: 6:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Saturday

ENTERTAINMENT: 7 p.m. to 9 p.m. Saturdays, Turkish Cabaret Belly Dancing

MEALS: Breakfast, $3 to $5.75; lunch and dinner, $4.95 to $18.95; dessert, $1.25 to $5.95; appetizers, $3.75 to $7.95. Food is available for dine in or take out

CALL: (813) 659-8400

WEB SITE: www.Turquoise MedGrill.com

Reporter Jan Hollingsworth can be reached at (813) 865-4436 or jhollingsworth@tampatrib.com.

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